How to Paint Melamine Surfaces

Cream paint on paint roller going over laminate surface

The Spruce / Margot Cavin

Project Overview
  • Working Time: 2 - 4 hrs
  • Total Time: 1 - 2 days
  • Skill Level: Intermediate
  • Estimated Cost: $30 to $100

Melamine is commonly used as a surface for many countertops, cabinets, and shelves. But melamine is susceptible to wea. It might get scratched and nicked with everyday use. Unlike solid-surface counter materials or butcher-block wood—both of which can be effectively sanded down smooth and brought back to like-new condition—melamine can't be sanded since it is a layered material. But you can extend the life of your melamine counters or cabinets by painting them.

Preparation

Prepare the surface so that the paint will stick over the long term. Improperly applied paint will peel. Begin by deglossing and roughening the melamine with sandpaper or liquid deglosser. Also, you will need specialized paint or coating for melamine. Some paints will call for a primer coat before applying the paint, while others can be used without primer. It's always best to start with a primer to ensure adhesion and paint coverage.

What Is Deglossing?

Glossy surfaces like melamine are meant to repel water, dirt, and other substances. Liquid sandpaper or deglosser, along with the mechanical process of sanding with sandpaper, helps dull those surfaces. The surfaces have "tooth," or enough porosity to attach to the coating.

Paint to Use For Melamine

Use a urethane-reinforced paint. Urethane-reinforced products are more expensive than ordinary acrylic-latex paints for walls. The urethane hides scratches better and sticks to problem surfaces.

One brand, INSL-X Cabinet Coat, is designed to adhere to plastic, metal, and urethane surfaces without a primer. But melamine surfaces will still need sanding before painting.

Safety Considerations

The fine dust particulate that results from sanding down plastic can be dangerous to inhale. Tape off the work zone with plastic sheeting and open windows and use fans for ventilation of the paint fumes.

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What You'll Need

Equipment / Tools

  • Box fan
  • Dust mask or respirator
  • Goggles or eye protection
  • Work light
  • Paint roller with dense-foam roller cover
  • Synthetic-bristle paintbrush

Materials

  • Drop cloths
  • Painter's tape
  • Contractor's paper
  • Plastic sheeting
  • 150- or 180-grit sandpaper
  • Tack cloth
  • Clean, lint-free cloths
  • Mineral spirits
  • Primer (if necessary)
  • Liquid deglosser (if necessary)
  • Paint

Instructions

Materials to paint on laminate or melamine surface laid on marbled table

The Spruce / Margot Cavin

  1. Prepare the Area

    Remove all items near the cabinets or counters to another area. Open the windows. If you can, set up a box fan, so it blows out of one window. You want to promote cross-ventilation throughout the work area. Place drop cloths on the flooring and tape contractor's paper or plastic on all surfaces that will not be coated. Confine the work area with plastic sheeting to prevent the sanding dust from traveling throughout the house.

    Box fan running in front of open window

    The Spruce / Margot Cavin

  2. Roughen the Surface

    Protect yourself from sanding dust with a dust mask or respirator. Sand down the melamine surface with 150- or 180-grit sandpaper. Using a work light, frequently check you are removing the glossiness from the surface, giving you a matte (or flat) finish. Do not sand down too hard, or you can risk damaging the thin wear layer of the melamine. Instead of this step, you can substitute sanding by applying a liquid deglosser or "liquid sandpaper" to the surface.

    Laminate or melamine surface sanded down

    The Spruce / Margot Cavin

  3. Clean the Surface

    Wipe down the sanded surface with a tack cloth, using light pressure to prevent transferring the wax from the cloth to the surface. Follow by wiping down the surface with mineral spirits and clean, lint-free cloths. Let the surface dry completely. Skip this step if you opted for liquid deglossing.

    Laminate or melamine surface wiped down by tack cloth

    The Spruce / Margot Cavin

  4. Apply the First Coat

    Apply a thin coat of paint (or primer, if the paint you're using calls for it) to the entire surface, using a paintbrush for the edges and tight spots and a roller with a high-density foam roller cover (designed for smooth surfaces) for the flat areas. Take special care to maintain a wet edge while painting: Overlap the edge of each painted section with fresh primer or paint before the previously painted edge dries. Allow the first coat to dry for at least 6 hours or as recommended by the manufacturer.

    Tip

    During the initial drying process for any of the paint coats, do not use fans blowing air into the room. The fans will push airborne dust and debris onto the wet paint. Ventilate with open windows but only if it's not too windy or drafty and turn fans facing the other way, sucking out the room's air and venting it outside.

    High density roller painting first layer of white paint on laminate or melamine surface

    The Spruce / Margot Cavin

  5. Apply the Subsequent Coats

    Apply one or more additional coats of paint, using the same techniques. Let each coat dry as directed. If you are using standard enamel paint, the last one or two coats can be layers of clear acrylic sealer. It's not uncommon to apply as many as five coats in total: a primer coat to begin, then two coats of enamel paint, finishing with one or two coats of acrylic sealer.

    Tip

    In general, the odor from drying or curing coatings is strongest while the coating is still wet. If you open windows to ventilate, make sure the temperature and humidity levels in the work area stay within the manufacturer's recommended ranges.

    Second coat of tan paint applied to laminate or melamine surface

    The Spruce / Margot Cavin

  6. Cure the Surface

    Let the final coat cure fully for two to three weeks before placing any heavy objects on it or scrubbing the surface vigorously. You do not need to ventilate the area during this period. You can use the surface gently and only clean it with a damp cloth. If you don't wait for the full duration, small appliances and items stored on top can stick to the paint or mar the surface finish.

    Laminate or melamine surface cured with a coffee tray and books on top

Alternative: Countertop Resurfacing Systems

When refinishing melamine counters, instead of paint, consider an all-in-one countertop resurfacing system, such as Rust-Oleum's Countertop Transformations.

The benefit of these kits is that they are formulated to cover up scratched or dinged countertops by laying down a thick topcoat that securely adheres to a primer coat. These systems go beyond paint; they spread a solid layer of decorative chips, adhesive coating, and tints that work together to emulate stone surfacing like granite countertops when done.

This thick layer effectively covers up all scratches. These systems can get pricey and can be time-consuming with many steps. You will not be able to use the surface for at least a week—not even gently.

The Spruce uses only high-quality sources, including peer-reviewed studies, to support the facts within our articles. Read our editorial process to learn more about how we fact-check and keep our content accurate, reliable, and trustworthy.
  1. Surface preparation. Yale School of Medicine.